Chanoyu in Nishiawakura

A summer in Nishiawakura Village, documenting a lesson in Japanese tea ceremony. My teacher, Olivier Charles and his wife Hiromi welcomed six of us to their home in Okayama’s small village full of hospitality and unforgettable locals. Hiromi’s great grandmother had founded the village library, now the epicenter for many students and new working professionals. Hiromi’s mother came and shared her cooking with us, and her skills as a tea ceremonialist. 

As she sat in her summer kimono, instructing us- a group of strangers from Hawaii, New Zealand, Australia, America, and England. I hear someone whisper how natural her posture in seiza is, even dressed up in the early summer heat. She smiles and laughs with us- sometimes it is probably at us- and explains the customs she had been expertly practicing throughout her life, including designing kimono- an essential part of the tea ceremony.

We sit in seiza as well, the formal kneeling posture. The original reason to sit this way was to discourage hostility for samurai during the tea ceremony, intending peace. She demonstrated each step, explaining not only how it is done but why. The way to wipe the tea bowl three times is not decorative but to reflect a sequence of routine and showing respect. Tracing the kanji “i” and “ri” with the cloth is similarly a gesture of order and intentionality. We rotate the bowl three times, ensuring the nicest side faces outward toward others; part of the nature of the ceremony to show respect. 

Seasonal sweets accompanied the matcha, sugar confections and red bean cakes. Their consumption before the final sip of tea follows a prescribed order intended to balance taste and mark progression of the ceremony. Drinking the tea in three sips is required.